chrispy thoughts

-the world as I see it

La Sagrada Familia

If you would ask me to name the one building that defines the skyline of Barcelona, it would have to be the Sagrada Familia, undoubtedly. Having heard volumes about the structure and the man behind the masterpiece, Antoni Gaudi, a visit to the Sagrada Familia was at the top of my to-do list in Barcelona. My apartment was just ten minutes away from it and so after I had settled in, I decided to take a walk to the place, and have a look at it myself. Walking along Carrer de la Marina, I inched closer to those looming cranes in the sky and then I saw it – a huge basilica, still in the process of construction, with hordes of people queued up around it, waiting to get inside. I clearly recall the first impression I formed after I had walked around the Sagrada Familia- “This building doesn’t work for me. There is so much happening – the facades are beautiful individually, but altogether – no. There is some sort of a disconnect”. I went back home thinking that this has got to be yet another one of those structures that fail to live up to the hype and that Gaudi must be overrated.

The very decorative Nativity facade(left) and the strikingly bare in comparison Passion facade(right)

What is the Sagrada Familia? It is a minor basilica dedicated to the Holy family. The church has been under construction since 1882 and isn’t going to be finished for at least another fifteen years. This expiatory church has been built entirely on donations and money that comes in from tourists. Although the Sagrada Familia is considered the brainchild of Gaudi, one of the most celebrated Catalan architects, he was not involved in the beginning of the project nor did he live to see its end. Gaudi took over as chief architect in 1883 and continued until his death in 1926. Since then, there have been many other architects involved in the construction of the church. The destruction of Gaudi’s drawings and initial plans of the structure, the use of materials of construction different from the ones used in the original structure and a lack of the architects’ insight into the eccentric mind of Gaudi washed any plan of making the structure as ‘Gaudian’ as possible, down the drain. This has been the centre of much controversy and the main cause of a growing unrest among some factions as the basilica nears completion. The very detailed and intricate Nativity facade ensconced with symbolism is the only facade that is entirely supervised by Gaudi but the Passion facade, although visually appealing in its own way, lacks the decorative detail that characterizes a Gaudi work. The Glory facade, which will have the main entrance to the church, is still under construction. Apart from these three main facades, the fourth facade which is the apse facade, is dedicated to Mother Mary.

The birth of Jesus and His suffering seen up close on the Nativity(above) and Passion(below) facades respectively

A few days later, I was told by one of my friends who had visited the interior of the church that it was incredible and he had never seen anything like it before. I decided that I would go back again, and this time I would check out the interiors, but my plans never materialized. Disheartened by the never-ending queues, I kept postponing my visit to the basilica. I was pleasantly surprised when the Professor at our university informed us that there would be an upcoming technical visit to the Sagrada Familia. We were a group of students from our University led by two Professors and one of the engineers involved in the current construction. That reminds me, if you are visiting the Sagrada Familia as a group,  it is recommended that you book your tickets at least fifteen days in advance. A group booking saves you the hassle of waiting in those ever-so-long queues.

After making sure that everyone had turned up, headphones were handed to us, so that we could listen to what the engineer had to tell us about the building. We entered the church and I had just one word – wow! It’s the most natural-looking man-made structure that I have ever seen. The columns branch out at the top, analogous to trees with branches and the church is illuminated by light which filters through the stained glass windows and the hyperboloids on the ceiling that reflect natural light. I was in a stone forest and it was just wonderful 🙂

The forest-like interior

The hyperboloids on the ceiling

Coming to the columns -none of the columns inside the church are straight, they are all leaning at angles decided by Gaudi. How did he determine these angles? – Gravity.

Gaudi developed a model of the church using string and let it hang upside down. The degree of leaning of the strings in the model gave the leaning angle of the columns in the church. Gravity showed how the structure would be stable.  It all sounds so simple, but takes genius to apply that logic.

The inverted model of the Sagrada Familia created by Gaudi

The columns are also made from different materials, depending on the load they carry. In the picture below, you can see the tallest columns which are made of red porphyry with a concrete interior, carrying symbolic images of the four evangelists- Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. It is said that more than twenty kinds of stone have been used in the construction till date.

Names of the four evangelists and their depiction on the column capitals

A crucifix adorns the altar, which is otherwise quite plain. It is hard to maintain a prayerful atmosphere in the main part of the church because of the scores of tourists flitting about and chatting away. Service is usually held in the crypt, but due to restoration work, it is held in a section of the main area of the church presently. The crypt contains the tomb of Antoni Gaudi.

The Crucifix at the Altar

After having a good look at the interior of the church, we headed to the part which is currently under construction – the central tower, which when complete will be the reason behind the basilica’s claim to fame. This tower, called the Jesus tower, will be 170 metres tall and will make the Sagrada Familia the tallest church in the world. My respect for Gaudi increased when I heard the guide say that the height of the tower would be restricted to a metre less than the peak of Montjuic, a mountain in the southwest of Barcelona, as Gaudi believed that no man-made creation should surpass God’s creation. (The concept of building grandiose and imposing places of worship has existed since times immemorial, as we know how some people associate height with prestige -a concept I don’t agree with). In addition to the Jesus tower, the final structure will have 17 other towers, of which only 8 are ready as of now.

We got out of the temporarily built elevator and made our way through scaffolding, eager to get to the most interesting and exciting part of the visit. We felt privileged to see the construction activity first-hand. Work was going on in full swing with supervising engineers and construction workers bustling about. Although Gaudi made minimal use of concrete, modern day construction relies heavily on the use of reinforced concrete. We also saw some of the plaster moulds used for shaping the pinnacles of the columns.

The central Jesus tower under construction

From here, we proceeded to the choir loft. You can observe the ceiling a lot better from here and I got a nice shot of the central nave flanked by columns.

The view of the central nave from the choir loft

As I had mentioned before, there is a lot of hidden meaning in the different sculptures and elements of the church.
One of them is the anagram of the Holy Trinity which is seen crowning the cypress on the Nativity facade. The dove perched at the top is a symbol of the Holy Spirit, the cross of Jesus is depicted in the cross piece on the letter ‘tau’. Tau is the first letter of the word Theos, the Greek name for God. Amazing, isn’t it?

The anagram of the Holy Trinity on the Nativity facade

As you descend the staircase, pause for a bit and look down to the bottom (not recommended for those with altophobia 😛 ).  In addition to giving you some respite from the dizziness, you will notice that the staircase is shaped such that it seems like you are being taken into the inside of a snail.

Descending the staircase which is akin to the inside of a snail

Look out for the statue of the six-toed man about to slaughter a child (depicting Childermas), the angels with musical instruments, the tortoises at the base of the column, and try spotting the different sculpted birds.

There is also a museum on the premises that takes you through the various stages of construction in the form of paintings, photographs and models. A short Catalan movie on the Sagrada Familia with English subtitles is screened in one of the rooms at regular intervals.

Looking out into the distance from the Sagrada Familia

That’s a shot of me trying to look all important with my hard hat..haha.
Those two tall buildings you see in the distance are the Torre Mapfre and the Hotel Arts, two of the most famous skyscrapers in Barcelona.

My final verdict:

With regard to my first impression of the building- scratch that.

If you ever go to Barcelona, the Sagrada Familia is a must-see.

It is worth every cent – the entrance fee for an adult is 13 euros and an additional fee of 4 euros is charged for an audio guide, which I recommend, you must take.

Gaudi is NOT overrated and I am a huge fan 😀

Peace!

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15 comments on “La Sagrada Familia

  1. Cheryl Anne
    November 20, 2012

    Very nice! Wish u were there when we went around! It would’ve been even better!

    • C.
      November 20, 2012

      🙂 🙂 🙂

  2. Lisa Shaw
    November 21, 2012

    I clicked on this post because I recognized the name of the cathedral from the Alan Parsons Project album “Gaudi,” but I never knew much about the real thing before now. Thanks for the comprehensive walk-through and awesome pics, especially that lovely shot of the spiral staircase. I felt like I was there. 😉

    • C.
      November 21, 2012

      Thanks for stopping by and dropping a few lines Lisa. It feels great when people give you feedback, especially a nice one like yours 🙂

  3. Richard Tulloch
    December 4, 2012

    I felt as you did when we visited La Sagradia as a construction site a few years ago. None of the interior was finished then, and it was indeed underwhelming. Guell Park had a similar effect on me – impressive but way too busy!

    Your photos and report make me feel like getting back to Barcelona before too long.

    Thanks!

    • C.
      December 4, 2012

      Thanks for reading and appreciating.
      The thing about Gaudi structures is that some of the stuff just looks like a hodge-podge, but everything he puts in there is for a reason. Fascinating!
      I loved reading your blog, very informative.

  4. Pingback: Belgrade’s iconic landmark | chrispy thoughts

  5. lultimacia
    January 26, 2016

    Hi C.,

    I would like to seek your permission to use your photo of the La Sagrada Familia staircase (description: Descending the staircase which is akin to the inside of a snail) for a non-profit student magazine at the University of Toronto.

    I personally visited Spain in 2014 and wrote an article on my trip (unfortunately it is in Chinese, otherwise I would love to share it with you). I was very much amazed by La Sagrada Familia but I did not take any good photos for the designers to do the layout design of the article.

    The magazine, UTChinese Magazine, is published by a student organization named UTChinese Network, and distributed for free on University of Toronto campuses. Some of the articles may also be published online on our website or social network platforms. It is not a commercial magazine, and was first started in 2006 by a group of Chinese students who love reading and writing.

    Please kindly let me know if you are okay with us using your photo as mentioned above. I can provide you a PDF copy once the magazine is published.

    To find more about UTChinese Network, you can visit https://www.utchinese.org/

    Looking forward to your reply. The staircase photo is absolutely stunning.

    Thank you,
    Linda

    • C.
      January 26, 2016

      Sure 🙂

      • lultimacia
        January 27, 2016

        Thank you so much!

      • lultimacia
        February 11, 2016

        Hi C., I just want to let you know that the magazine has been published! Thanks again for letting us use your photo. If you would like an electronic copy, please send an email to editorial@utchinese.org and we will email you.

  6. Femke
    November 30, 2017

    Dear C,

    I too am intrigued by your picture of the staircase in the Sagrada Familia. I would very much like to use the picture for the cover of my thesis (as a metaphor of a journey, it’s about developing a therapy for a metabolic disorder). Are you fine with that and if so is there any way I can personally acknowledge you for the picture?(on the inside of the cover for instance).

    All the best and looking forward to your reply,
    Femke

    p.s. I found your website via the picture and now also read your other blogs. Really like your stories and the photographs :-). Keep up the inspiring work!

    • C.
      November 30, 2017

      Hi Femke
      Feel free to use the picture 🙂 Thanks for reading!

  7. Femke
    November 30, 2017

    Thank you so much! Please let me know if you would like your name or website on the inside of the cover. If you like I can ofcourse also sent you a copy 🙂

    • C.
      December 1, 2017

      You can mention my blog, but that’s up to you 🙂 I would love to have a copy though!

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